Paris, France

This is going to be a relatively short post because what can I say about Paris that hasn’t already been said? I’ll give you my honest opinion, and it may be a bit unpopular. In one word, Paris is overrated. There are those who will tell you what’s expected to be said; Paris is beautiful and magical. Meh, not especially. But I’m a firm believer in the old Asian proverb – “Better to see something once than to hear about it a thousand times.” So, if you love art, go to Paris; want history? Yes, go to Paris. Want to experience the culture? Um, not so much. Look, if Paris is a bucket list destination, absolutely go, but I will also tell you to lower your expectations. Well, lower your expectations on everything except for how expensive Paris is; that one might actually exceed your expectations. Having been there once, I really feel that I don’t ever have to go back; once was enough.

Let me explain, if you go to Paris expecting to see what’s on television shows, you will be greatly disappointed. A quick Google search says about 20% of the population in Paris are immigrants. I would say that is a number on the low side. Paris-born Parisians are outnumbered by those born outside the country; many of these people keep their international ties. Hence, many shops, restaurants, and neighborhoods in Paris don’t look French but rather look, sound and feel more like you are in an Arab or North African country. So, if you are expecting a traditional French culture, you aren’t going to get that. Expect a wider, heavier range of cultural and ethnic influences. All I’m saying is that if you can’t see the Eiffel Tower, you may not know you are in Paris.

So, what to do? Of course, visit the Eiffel Tower; is it necessary to go to the top? If you only plan on doing that once, go at night when you can see all the twinkling lights of the city; it’s very romantic. Swing by Notre-Dame, beautiful but rebuilt since it burned down in 2019, so other than the outside shell of the building it is indeed going to be very new. The cathedral just opened, so I have not been inside. The Louvre, good luck getting tickets in the summer. You can literally see everything inside the Louvre on the internet, but if you want to see it in person, be prepared for long lines. Always wanted to see the Mona Lisa? Fine, but it is much smaller than you think and you cannot get very close; it’s behind a protective glass barrier. You could stroll along the Seine River; sometimes there will be little markets set up here and there which can be interesting to look at. Sure, you could walk the wide boulevard of the Champs-Élysées, but unless you’re made of money, the designer boutiques are a waste of time. Every major cultural site will require reservations well in advance; seriously, months in advance if you plan to visit during the summer. Do your homework, plan your trip carefully, and give yourself lots of time to get from place to place.

I went to Paris in the summer when everyone says not to go, and for good reason; the crowds, the lines, the smells, ugh. My sister went in October and had an altogether different experience; tickets were much easier to get, often just walking up and getting right in. Major sights like the Louvre were still crowded but easier to access. She had a fantastic time. Her only complaint about going in October was that it rained quite a few days, and the weather was chilly. Being short on time, I went with a high-speed sightseeing approach. Here’s what I did; stopped by Notre-Dame; it wasn’t open yet, so obviously we couldn’t go inside. Walked to the Eiffel Tower; did not go up. Walked a short distance along the Seine River. We did enjoy a glass of wine and lunch just across the river from Notre-Dame at a quaint café that was lovely. Checked out the Arc de Triomphe; did not go to the top. Walked by the Louvre; did not go in. Copy, paste, repeat for several other spots. Regrettably, I did not get to go into Sainte-Chapelle; the lines were too long. This was one place that I really wanted to visit. The stained glass windows are absolutely stunning and even more so on a sunny day. The fact that these windows are mostly from the 13th century and have still survived is amazing to me. You can get a ‘twin ticket’ for €20, which includes entrance to both Sainte-Chapelle and The Conciergerie, but again, do this in advance.

Where I spent more time was visiting Basilica Sacré-Cœur. Sacré-Cœur is located at the summit of the highest point in Paris. The interior of the basilica has a huge mosaic of Jesus Christ, but the showstopper is the panoramic views across the city from the top of the dome. Entry into the basilica is free, but access to the top will cost you €7 and is roughly 280 steps to the top. So worth the effort, the views of the city will leave you awestruck. This place was the highlight of my Paris visit especially since we timed our stop with the sun setting. I highly recommend going there. Another location I took a little time to see was Palais Garnier (Paris Opera House), often called the mini Versailles. The interior is magnificently opulent, and ticket prices to access the public areas are reasonable; €14 plus I did not need a reservation to get in, but for guaranteed access, I recommend buying a ticket online.

To see the major attractions of Paris, give yourself 3-4 days in the city, 4 in the summer because getting from place to place and line waiting will eat up more time. If you can take a side trip to Versailles, DO IT! The Palace of Versailles is an absolute must see and will take an entire day. Book skip-the-line tickets online and to schedule your desired entry time.

How to get around Paris? I came in on the train from Amsterdam; if you book your cross country tickets at least 30 days in advance or more, they will be significantly cheaper, for example—from an average cost of US$34.50 versus US$139 if you buy a week in advance. The high-speed Eurostar trains are comfortable and relatively stress-free. The views are great, and the main train station in Paris, Gare du Nord, is located in the heart of the city. Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG) is the international airport and is about 21 miles outside of the city center. This is a major international airport, and many planes arrive at the same time. It can take 90 minutes to get through customs during peak hours, so hit the bathroom before getting in line and maybe grab a drink or snack. An Uber from the airport into Paris will run on average about €52. I recommend doing this because you will be tired and jet-lagged, and this is the simplest, fastest way to get to where you want to go. Just be sure to start looking on your app as you are collecting your luggage. You can attempt the Metro but with luggage and fatigue this will 100% be a challenge especially if Metro line transfers are required. The Paris Metro can be difficult and confusing. Major attractions are spread throughout the city so Metro travel makes the most sense, but you can walk to many sites if you plan your days right. Metro maps will have stickers marking major attractions so you can figure it out with a little time. Just be patient, you can try asking for help but everyone is either in a hurry or just as confused as you are. Again, do a little research, you can find metro maps online.

Where to stay? I opted to book a hotel that was literally across the street from Gare du Nord; I don’t like hauling luggage too far. I booked a room on Booking.com. Honestly, that neighborhood was not great; felt a little sketchy, I wouldn’t walk around it at night, but the proximity to metro/train travel was very convenient. Do what works for your travel plans but look close at google maps, I would recommend staying somewhere within short walking distance to a metro station.

As always, keep an open mind when visiting a new city. Expect a few little delays, especially when trying to navigate the metro, but don’t let that scare you; consider it part of your adventure. Be aware of pickpockets in crowded spaces, and don’t leave items on tabletops or hanging on the back of chairs. When in Paris, make sure you sample the 3 C’s: croissants, crêpes, and chocolate éclairs. Bon voyage.