Geneva, Switzerland

When someone mentions Geneva, Switzerland, I immediately think; international, sophisticated, polished, beautiful and expensive. Geneva, known for its watches, chocolate and banks, is located on the very western edge of Switzerland; it is very closely surrounded by France on three sides; the closest French border is only 3.7 miles away and Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) on the east. The city is split by the Rhone River which is important to know as locations may be referred to as either on the left bank or the right bank. Geneva is and feels very international; in fact, it is known for its international presence with over 40% of its population being of other nationalities. It is the European headquarters of the United Nations, and is recognized as a global financial center. Although French is the main language spoken here, most of the locals can speak passable English. Knowing a few French phrases will help a lot here. If you make a little effort, even as simple as saying “Bonjour” and “merci”, the Genevese will have mercy on you and speak English. My point is, make the effort; it goes a long way. People living here speak at least three, if not four languages; French, German, and Italian are its official languages, but the international language of business is English. This was the one city where I actually felt stupid or more specifically, embarrassed that other then english, I only knew basic to intermediate German. I’ve been working on that ever since.

Probably not a surprise, but Geneva is expensive; it consistently ranks among the most expensive cities in the world, with everything from accommodations to meals costing a significant amount. Geneva is a popular tourist destination, but the high prices can make it a budget-straining trip for some. Geneva is tough because many multinationals and wealthy expats are based there. There is a saying, Geneva: where the lakes are deep and the pockets are deeper. For my money, if you want to visit Switzerland, skip Geneva; go to Lucerne or Zurich instead. Also good to know, Switzerland is not a member of the EU; therefore, its national currency is the Swiss franc (CHF), not the euro. My first time here, I made the mistake of only bringing euros and struggled to find an ATM, especially because those are referred to as Bancomats there. If you ask for an ATM, they will have no idea what you are talking about. Cash is handy for small purchases like coffee, but credit cards are accepted everywhere.

That being said, Geneva sits on the edge of a beautiful lake and its old town is picturesque and charming. The city’s landmark: Jet d’Eau is impressive, and strolling along the Quai (the path along the lakefront) is magical. There are plenty of parks, restaurants, and bars. Watches and other luxury shopping are all fairly close together, and you can pretty much walk everywhere. Fun fact: Geneva has the longest wooden bench in the world, and you better believe I found it! It’s hard to miss the 400-foot long bench called “Banc de la Treille,” which sits on the edge of a park and offers panoramic views down to another park: Parc des Bastions.

Here is my take on some of the top attractions in Geneva. Jet d’Eau: this is the giant fountain on Lake Geneva; it is the symbol of the city and can practically be seen from everywhere. It’s more of a can’t-miss than a must-see. It really is impressive when you consider it shoots 132 gallons of water 459 feet into the air every second at 125 mph! According to multiple sources, it’s the cities number one attraction. St Pierre Cathedral: this is a historic cathedral in Old Town and, to be honest, other than the Chapel, the interior is rather plain. However, the real draw is climbing the 157 steps to the top of the North Tower for the epic views of the lake and mountains beyond. The space under the Cathedral contains remains, an archaeological museum, of the many churches that preceded the current structure: the oldest of these dates from the late 4th century. The museum is well done, full of artifacts; interesting enough, and a welcome break from the heat if you are visiting in the summer. The Reformation Wall: The Genevese are very proud of this monument commemorating the Protestant Reformation, which was a significant event in Geneva. The monument is on the grounds of the University of Geneva, which was founded by John Calvin and portrays his figure along with a few other prominent figures. It is rather austere and plain (like John Calvin) and, well, kind of boring to look at. Itself not worth a special trip but the park it is in is very lovely.

Lake Geneva: when viewed from above, is in the shape of a crescent moon with the city of Geneva at the southern point. Lake Geneva is the largest lake in Switzerland and is also very deep. The water of the lake is blue and crystal clear and while walking around the lake and across bridges, you can see all the way to the bottom. The Rhône river flows through the lake moving at about 6 mph, maybe this flow is why it’s so clean? I recommend a stroll on one of the promenades along the lake’s edge. In warmer months, there are plenty of bars and little restaurants to sip, relax, and watch the jet. There are several historic paddle boats and ferries that crisscross the lake along with small private boats darting about, plenty to keep you entertained while enjoying a glass of Swiss wine. Old Town Exploration: Wandering through the charming streets of the Old Town with its narrow alleys and historic buildings was my favorite thing to do here. The historic old town lies ‘uphill’ from the lake on the left bank. Called Vielle Ville in French, it’s cobblestone streets and historic buildings feel a world apart from the lake shore. Other than visiting the lake, exploring the old town is the number one thing to do in Geneva. This is where I preferred to sip my morning coffee in a charming street side cafe every morning and where we would walk to each night to enjoy dinner. There are plenty of bars and restaurants in this area.

What else is there to do? You can take a tour of the United Nations Building, but I’d rather kick rocks. I highly recommend going on a walking Chocolate Tour. This was a highlight of one of my visits to the city. You get to indulge in sampling some of Switzerland’s finest treats and get a little history along the way between visiting chocolatiers. This was so much fun and felt guilt-free as I’m pretty sure we walked off all the calories. You can book a tour online. I also recommend taking a boat tour on the lake. There are multiple website where you can book boat tours online. Also referred to as Pleasure Boats and Ferries, they stop at towns such as Montreux, Lausanne and other smaller towns. The pleasure boats area a treat because they serve food and beverages. Spend a little extra to sit in first class, its less crowded, better views and has table service. I actually took a Pleasure Cruise to Yvoire, France, a medieval town on Lake Geneva but obviously on the French shore. This town is romantic and dripping in flowers, a great destination for a day-trip. The town is traffic free, has several top-notch restaurants, a castle, a beautiful garden and a few touristy shops.

I tried to blend in with Geneva’s classy vibes, but I felt like a hot mess most of the time. Blending in during summer months was a little easier, think golf course attire or business casual. You do not need to feel like you have to wear designer cloths but making the effort to wear your better clothes here will make you feel like you fit in. While not a complete ban, air conditioning is not generally allowed in the country. This is important to remember if you are visiting in the summer months. Dress accordingly. The Swiss will say air conditioning is not worth it because they only really need it 3-5 days of the year, but it always seems that’s the 3-5 days of the year that I’m there! Also, check trains before booking tickets to make sure they have air conditioning, they could get stuffy. During winter months, dress in layers with warm sweaters and make sure you have a warm coat, scarf, hat and gloves. Layers are important because Geneva does a good job at keeping the inside of buildings warm.

I left Geneva feeling a little underwhelmed. Yeah, the views and natural beauty are nice, but you can get maybe not necessarily better but more in other parts of Switzerland. The Old Town was indeed charming, and the city was clean and felt very safe, even at night. The chocolate was very good but overpriced. Do I feel the need to go back again? Nope. Honestly, after the first time I was there, I had to find things to do outside the city for consecutive visits (read my post on Annecy). If you have a deep desire to go to Geneva, think about just going on a day trip. Anything worth seeing can all be done in a day. Stay somewhere on the lake or a short train ride away and save a little money on accommodations.

A helpful tool for me was Fodor’s Essential Switzerland Travel Guide. I bought the book prior to visiting Switzerland and referred to it frequently. The book covers the entire country but has a substantial section on Geneva. I was traveling to other parts of the country, and that is why I chose this book over a pocket guide. You can click on the above link to purchase the book on Amazon. I am an Amazon Affiliate.

Below are photo examples for my lady friends wanting a little more guidance on what to wear during warmer months in Geneva. This fashion is for ladies who are over the cute little sundresses and lean more towards functional, comfortable, athletic wear. I personally own both of these in multiple colors and patterns. The shirts travel very well, don’t wrinkle, and are dry-wicking. The shirt will keep you cool, and with the subtle cut and collar, look polished. Here is a link to the shirt. The shorts have multiple pockets with zippers, which are handy, an elastic band with belt loops, and are also dry-wicking. The fabric is light, the cut is classic, and they are available in several inseam lengths. Click here for a link to the shorts. Good walking shoes will be a must, not flip-flops; the hills and cobblestone streets will wear your feet out if you are not wearing quality walking shoes. I wear a straw sunhat almost daily in the summer when I travel through Europe. They are much classier than a visor or baseball hat (which scream I am an American) and have the extra benefit of blocking the sun from your ears and neck. Here is a link to a hat similar to the hats I own. All links will take you to Amazon, of which I am an Affiliate. I hope these examples help you with your packing choices.