Amsterdam, Netherlands (Part One)

WHAT TO EXPECT IN AMSTERDAM

Oh boy. Okay, where to start? Amsterdam is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe; a lot of Europeans themselves travel here. It is often referred to as Sin City due to the widely available adult entertainment such as legalized prostitution, sex shows, sex shops, and cannabis consumption. Think of it as Las Vegas but on steroids and in Dutch. Although many come here for the Red Light District (more on that later) and the marijuana, it is also what comes to mind for most people when you mention Amsterdam. The city has so much more to offer. What comes to mind for me is the picturesque canals, historic buildings, world-class museums, tulips, bicycles, and then the crazy (some say vibrant) nightlife. Despite that nightlife reputation, Amsterdam is one of the safest cities for solo travelers, including women. The locals are friendly, and the Dutch speak very good English. Other than the fear of getting hit by a bike (I’ve witnessed several bicyclist vs. tourist accidents), the city is very relaxed and easy to explore on foot.

One thing you will notice right away about Amsterdam is that many of the buildings are leaning, so don’t worry, it’s not the jet lag playing games with your mind. The houses were built with a forward incline on purpose to help prevent items from hitting the front of the building when being hauled to higher floors. Amsterdam’s historic canal houses especially are tall and narrow, with very steep staircases. The buildings are narrow because, historically, taxes were based on the width of the property frontage, motivating builders to create long, thin structures to minimize tax obligations. You will also notice hoist beams sticking out from the top of buildings with a hook or block and tackle. These hooks are a practical solution to lifting heavy objects and furniture to higher floors through windows. Along with the lean, many buildings are crooked. Much of Amsterdam was built on wooden pilings in soft, marshy ground, which did not make for the most stable of foundations. Over time, the wood pilings have sunk and/or shifted, causing the buildings to bow and tilt. So, no, it is not a figment of your imagination; nothing much there is level, plumb, or straight. And if you feel like the houses are leaning in on you, it’s because they are.

Not exactly unique to Amsterdam but perhaps especially celebrated for it are the gabled roofs, particularly those adorning its historical canal houses. I’m not particularly knowledgeable when it comes to architecture, yet I find myself captivated by the many distinctive gable roof styles including stepped, neck, bell, and spout gables, each telling its own story through design. These architectural features were often a symbol of wealth and status in the past, showcasing the affluence of the homeowners while lending a unique character to the city’s skyline. As I walked along the canals, I couldn’t help but admire the intricate details and craftsmanship that went into each roof, making them so interesting. The tale goes that the more steps a roof had, the wealthier the homeowner, revealing a fascinating link between architectural design and social status in historical Amsterdam. It’s remarkable how these gables not only provide aesthetic value but also serve as a window into the rich history of the city and its inhabitants.

Amsterdam has a unique character and charm due to its iconic canals. Amsterdam began as a small settlement on the Amstel River. Later, when Amsterdam became a major global trading hub in the 17th century, the city expanded rapidly and began building the famous Canal Belt (Grachtengordel), canals that form a semi-circular patter around the city center. Whatever else you do, take time to stroll along this set of canals crisscrossed by humpback bridges and lined by handsome mansions built by the merchant elite during the Dutch Golden Age. Fun fact: Amsterdam has 47 miles of canals, who knew? Amsterdam is divided into 7 districts, or neighborhoods, with Amsterdam-Centrum (City Center) where you will find the famous canal rings area. There are three main canals: Herengracht, Prinsengracht, and Keizersgracht. Then, Singelgracht, the outermost canal, marks the boundary of the City Center. It helps to know these names and a rough idea of their location, as some restaurant and business locations are described by what canal they are on. I absolutely recommend talking a canal cruise, it is a popular way to explore the city and experience Amsterdam from a unique perspective. Now whether these canal cruises are considered a tourist-trap or not really depends on your perspective and expectations. Canal cruises are a dime a dozen and you can book them almost anywhere, but I recommend booking online and shopping for the best experience (dinner or drinks included/ day or night cruise) for you and with keeping in your budget. Doing a tour early in your trip will give you a chance to get the lay of the land.

Amsterdam has a very heavy biking culture. Some say a better way to see the city is to rent a bicycle and ride around. I do not recommend this! Yes, Amsterdam is a fantastic city for bike rides and has a culture that embraces cycling, but it has a very extensive network of bike paths that can be confusing, crowded, and overwhelming; busy paths have their own traffic lights and rules. They have their own system of cycling etiquette that, as a tourist, you will not be familiar with. I recommend you stick with walking and always look for the bike paths and DO NOT WALK ON THEM! Pedestrians do not have the right of way in the Netherlands. Cyclists rule, next in the hierarchy are motorists, and at the bottom are pedestrians. In Amsterdam, if a pedestrian causes a bike accident, the cyclist is entitled to compensation for damages. The Dutch prioritize the protection of their bicyclists. So, always make sure you are not walking on the bike paths (not hard to miss as a bike is painted on the path) and always look for bike riders when crossing the roads. That being said, every time I’ve gone to Amsterdam, I’ve stayed in hotels in the ‘suburbs.’ These less busy towns and neighborhoods are a better choice if you really want to rent a bike and explore; in fact, many hotels actually rent out bikes to their hotel guests. I have rented bikes several times in the suburbs; it is a great option if you want to go somewhere off the beaten path. Just make sure to stay in the marked paths and obey the ‘bike lights.’

Amsterdam is known globally for its “coffee shop culture,” but most people, including myself, don’t know what it’s actually like inside one. “Coffee shops” aren’t hard to find. In central Amsterdam, you’ll find many of them scattered amongst bakeries, restaurants, stores, and bars. But before we get to what happens inside, some of you may still be unaware of what Amsterdam coffee shops actually are. As I’m sure you’ve guessed, Amsterdam coffee shops aren’t like other regular coffee shops around the world. In Amsterdam, those are known as a koffiehuis or a café. An Amsterdam coffee shop is a place where people go to buy and smoke cannabis. Think of it like the Amsterdam version of a dispensary crossed with a cafe. Cannabis has been decriminalized in the Netherlands since 1972, and “coffee shop” is the term used for the legal dispensaries of the product. If you want to be doubly sure, you can check the green and white license that should be displayed by the door. So, be aware if you are looking for a good cup of coffee, stay out of the “coffee shops,” because they don’t sell any there.

Traditional Dutch food includes Bitterballen (deep-fried meatballs); personally, I thought these were disgusting, so consider yourself warned. Herring, they do it right here, and I was pleasantly surprised when I had some pickled herring with onion, not my first choice, but I can eat it without gagging. Stroopwafels (thin, caramel-filled waffles) – okay, these are a must-have when in Amsterdam, and I’m not talking about the tiny ones you buy in a tourist shop. For the real thing, go to the oldest bakery in Amsterdam; Hans Egstorf Bakkerij. They will make your stroopwafel right in front of you using the original recipe from 1898. This authentic treat was served warm, and it was a delight; I’m so happy I took the time to stop by. Poffertjes (mini pancakes), about the size of a puffy silver dollar, are a popular breakfast dish and are often served with syrup; this is when I miss my maple syrup. And believe it or not, fries with mayo. Called frites, the Dutch are very passionate about their fries. There are shops all over the Netherlands that only sell fries and sauce; they are sold hot and in a paper cone. Dutch fries are always double-fried and fried in beef tallow; they are crispy and golden without being greasy or soggy. The most popular ‘sauce’ is mayonnaise. The Dutch are very proud of their mayo, and with good reason; it’s delicious. Their mayo is richer and creamier, and I miss it when I’m back home in the States. And now I’m hungry!

Are tulips really a thing in the Netherlands? Yes, they really are. The tulip is a symbol of Dutch culture and identity, and is an iconic image of the Netherlands. The Dutch have a strong connection to tulips, partly due to their historical significance as a symbol of wealth and status, and partly because the Netherlands is a major exporter of tulips and has ideal growing conditions for them. I will tell you, you will see tulips everywhere; whether they are real or artificial, painted or carved; you will find them being sold in the airport, train stations, the local grocery store, and in open markets. The Dutch love their tulips. If you go to Amsterdam in the spring, make sure you visit Keukenhof Gardens; it is remarkable when the tulips are in bloom. Now when I see tulips, I am immediately reminded of Amsterdam.

Ok, so now to address the elephant in the room: The Red Light District. Also known as “De Wallen,” it’s more like a neighborhood in the city’s old center. It is famous for its concentration of sex-related businesses, including brothels, sex shops, and peep shows, all illuminated by red lights. You will see the XXX everywhere, and businesses are not shy about advertising all things explicitly sexual. While known for its sex-related activities, De Wallen also offers a variety of other attractions, including the aforementioned coffee shops, strip clubs, sex theaters, and gay bars, as well as museums (insert eye roll here) like the Museum of Prostitution and the Erotic Museum. I cannot tell you how many times people have asked me if I went to the Red Light District. Let me be clear, I may be from the Midwest, but I’m no prude. I have walked through it twice; the first time I had no idea where I was, and the second time, I walked through with my husband. The things you see there, once seen cannot be unseen. If you go for shock value, you’ll get it. I was at times shocked, embarrassed, and disgusted. Prostitutes stand behind large glass windows and advertise themselves, literally at all times of the day. So, if you’re thinking exploring the old town area during the day to see historic sights will allow you to avoid all the nonsense, you will be wrong. Granted, during the day it’s not as in-your-face and definitely quieter with most of the truly shocking theaters, glass windows, and businesses closed, but it’s still there. This is all I care to write on the subject; I feel Amsterdam has much more to offer than this.

Getting around: Amsterdam boasts an efficient public transport network, including metro, trams, buses, and ferries, making it easy to get around the city and its surrounding areas. The Amsterdam Central Station is a major hub for public transportation, connecting the city to the rest of the Netherlands and Europe by train, as well as being a central hub for trams and buses. The Central Station is a busy place, and I consider it the heart of Amsterdam. The intercity and regional train system is very user-friendly; these days, all you have to do is tap your credit card upon entering the turnstiles and simply tap it again when you exit at your destination. It really is so easy, no longer having to figure out what kind of ticket you need to buy or stand in line to purchase one at a kiosk. Schiphol Airport is the closest international airport, and there is a train station underneath it, so you don’t even have to walk outside. Knowing which train to take can be a little confusing; you need to go by the train’s final destination. For example, you may need to go to Zaandam, but you have to take the train to Haarlem, which stops in Zaandam. Look on the boards for stops.

A quick comment on the language. If you think the German language sounds harsh, it’s got nothing on Dutch. Dutch has guttural throaty sounds that bring to mind someone trying to hack something up all while having a mouthful of food. Dutch features sounds and combinations of sounds not typically found in English, like the “g” sound and the “sch” sound, along with, let’s call them unique vowel combinations. Dutch has a rhythm, where the stress is on every other syllable, which can sound unusual to us English speakers. Looking at a written word and then hearing it spoken will surprise you; it won’t be anything like you imagined. Luckily, the Dutch speak very good English, and I had no problems communicating while in the country. But for fun and to show a little respect, try to learn a few words like thank you and hello.

What kind of weather can you expect in Amsterdam? The Netherlands has a mild climate typical of Northern Europe, similar to that of the United Kingdom. As a result, summers in Amsterdam are generally warm with occasional colder periods, while the winters are fairly cold with rain, wind, and some snow. Occasionally, temperatures can dip below freezing in winter. The Netherlands, including Amsterdam, has a moderate maritime climate with mild winters and cool summers, meaning there’s no dry season. On average, there are 217 days per year with rainfall. I can tell you I have brought a light rain jacket and umbrella with me every time I’ve gone to Amsterdam, and I’ve needed to use them at least once every time. In the winter, I wear ‘Duck boots.’ Something that is waterproof and lined to provide warmth will help. The last time I was there in January, it snowed, but it was really slushy on the ground, so the boots came in clutch. I also wore a winter rain repellent coat, scarf, gloves, and a beanie. Amsterdam will get some pretty windy days, and with all the walking, the scarf and gloves were nice to have.

I’ve been to Amsterdam multiple times for weeks at a time during different seasons of the year. I’m comfortable in Amsterdam and enjoy the city. I’ve been there enough where you start to notice the little quirks and details that make up its charm. I just wanted to share a few observations and opinions on Amsterdam other than sites and things to do. I will take a deep dive into that for next week’s post.

Take a look at the pictures below; you will find a few things I used profusely while in Amsterdam. Although I am an Amazon Affiliate, I purchased these items prior to being so. I highly recommend the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Top 10 Amsterdam. The book is smaller in size and easy to carry; the maps are helpful, and along with top sights, the book includes top restaurants, bars, and cafes. I’ve read the book from front to back several times, and I still take it along with me every time I go to Amsterdam. The next helpful item is a high-speed portable charging bank. I just love this one; it’s thin and also recharges fairly fast. Last is a lightweight rain jacket. Mine has saved me from getting soggy many times. It packs up small enough to fit in a backpack, and I like all the zippers. I have used my rain jacket every time I’ve gone to Amsterdam. I hope this helps a little when it comes time for you to pack. Safe travels!