Naples (Napoli), Italy
If you love Italy and its history, Naples is a city you should devote a couple of days to. If you have had enough history and chaotic crowds annoy you, maybe skip Naples and go no further than Rome. To me, Naples is intense; it has its highs (birthplace of pizza, the best you will ever have) and its lows (crowded, filthy, and feels unsafe). To be honest, when people ask me about Naples, the only thing that really comes to mind is the pizza. That’s it. Maybe that’s unfair.
Naples is Italy’s third largest city and is Europe’s most densely populated. Walking through the colorful old town was an exercise in patience. The crush of people, the narrow streets, the trash, and smells (especially in the heat) made me more frustrated than inspired. It felt like a chore I couldn’t wait to get done. But the overwhelming, gnawing feeling I had was of danger. You know what, danger is too strong a word. I’ll just say the atmosphere felt risky throughout the majority of Naples.
If you are traveling alone, skip Naples. If you are traveling with a group of women, maybe just skip down to Naples from Rome on an express train for the day. Traveling as a group or couple? Stick to the main streets, even during the day. Do not veer off into side streets. Do not wear anything of value and keep your hands on your backpack, purse, and wallet at all times when in crowds. Keep your phone in a zipped pocket. Do not place your phone on the table when eating outdoors; do not hang your purse or backpack on the back of your chair. Keep everything in your lap or between your feet.
This may seem like common sense advice, and maybe I’m being a bit dramatic. I don’t want to scare you, but at the same time, information is power. Pickpockets, thieves, and con artists are alive and well in Naples. Everywhere we went, we were warned vehemently about this darker side of Naples. Do not take anything from anyone that you didn’t ask for first. More unsettling to me, though, were the occasional groups of men of a certain age gathered together doing nothing but watching people on the street corners. I felt like they were scouting for their next clueless tourist.
Nevertheless, with the international airport and port, Naples is a major transportation hub. Many travelers will use Naples as a base and take trains to Pompeii and Herculaneum or ferries daily to Sorrento and beyond. Also, the Port of Naples is a major stop for cruise ships. All I’m saying is, be careful and aware at all times. There is a heavy police presence in and around the train station and adjacent Piazza, so I felt safe there but, carry your own bags-there are no official porters at the train station. That being said, Naples has more to offer as far as accommodations and restaurants are concerned, therefore everything is a little more affordable in Naples. This might be the place to splurge on a safe and comfortable hotel.
That was the ‘bad’ but here is the good. Naples has one of Europe’s top archaeological museums; Museo Archeologico (closed Tuesdays). Naples is also a very short train ride away from Pompeii. You can book all sorts of excursions to Pompeii and more through the apps; GetYourGuide and TripAdvisor. As with any place you visit, do your research. Google “top things to do in ____.” The area offers a little something for everyone.
However, a trip to Naples would not be complete without walking down ‘The Split’. Spaccanapoli or Spacca is the nickname for the main thoroughfare. It literally ‘splits’ the historic city center in half. The road is packed with a number of famous points of interest, restaurants, and a plentiful amount of souvenir shops. I am not much of a shopper. I like to travel light and prefer to spend my money on experiences and excursions. But if you can’t find what you are looking for on ‘The Split,’ you don’t need it. Fair warning; The “Split” is a narrow, chaotic, and tightly packed road. It will be absolutely stuffed with tourists but full of color and energy.
For something a little fun and different, I recommend taking the Centrale Funicular (just off of Via Toledo Road) to ascend San Martino hill. The funicular runs about every ten minutes, and tickets will cost about €1.10 each. San Martino has the ultimate views overlooking Naples and the entire bay with Mount Vesuvius in the background. As an extra bonus, Castel Sant’Elmo and San Martino Monastery and Museum are also up there. Leaving the funicular, you will head uphill; keep looking for the brown signs for Castel S. Elmo. It’s a bit of a climb, but in no way strenuous. The views are worth it. If you have good knees, you can choose to climb the stairs all the way back down. The views down continue to be remarkable. The stairs will take you down to the Spanish Quarter, which is a fun and lively neighborhood. The stairs are a bit of a grind, and I definitely felt it in my legs the next day, so if you prefer to conserve your energy, retrace your steps and take the funicular back down.
Also, you may have heard, Naples is the birthplace of pizza! It’s famous for it and justifiably so. I’m no foodie, but I think the crust is the perfect combination of soft and chewy, baked in a wood-burning oven. The mozzarella will, of course, be fresh, but the star of the show, in my opinion, is the sauce (pomodoro). San Marzano tomatoes are the traditional tomatoes used in Naples pizzerias. They are low in acidity and give the sauce a depth, or should I say purity, of flavor that you will delight in. Your first bite will induce an immediate, involuntary groan of admiration.
Antica Pizzeria da Michele claims to have invented pizza. They only serve three kinds of pie: Margherita, Marinara, and Cosacca, none of which have meat. A pie will only cost you €8, but there will more than likely be a 30-minute line at the door if you want to dine inside (make sure you get a number). You can also order carry-out, which seems to be the preferred option by the looks of the trash cans overflowing with empty pizza boxes lining the street.
In my opinion, the better pizzeria is located across the street from Antica’s: Pizzeria Trianon da Ciro. This place has a much larger menu and includes meat options. As a bonus, this pizzeria has air-conditioning, which on a hot day is very much appreciated, and a larger, less chaotic indoor seating area upstairs. Pies here will cost €7.50 to €11. Try this pizzeria; you’ll thank me later; it will become the benchmark you compare every other pizza to.
Getting around Naples
Once you land in Naples, you can take the Alibus shuttle bus (right outside the baggage claim area of the airport). Alibus operates a dedicated shuttle bus service running straight from the airport to central Naples and the Port of Naples. The journey from Naples Airport to Piazza Garibaldi (the bus stop outside Naples Central Train Station) takes around 15 minutes. Taxi cabs are an option, but if you can manage your luggage, this is an opportunity to save a little money. They both take the same amount of time. You can buy your ticket directly from the bus driver; just tap your card. Shuttle bus tickets are €5 each, and they run continually.
If you are going anywhere other than the Port of Naples or the Central Train Station, check with your hotel/B&B first. They may have private transportation available for a set amount and usually cheaper if you pay in cash. We do this a lot when airports are far outside the city or would require multiple train/metro changes. You can usually ask the driver for his business card so you can contact him directly for the return trip. A legitimate taxi will have a set rate, but there will be extra charges (baggage fees, extra for after 10 pm, and extra for Sundays and holidays). While Uber is available, like in other parts of Italy, due to local regulations, Uber might primarily offer only luxury ride options. So, Uber does ‘work,’ but it will likely book a regular taxi for you.
Naples does have a Metro system. Naples has three main lines. Station entrances and signs are marked by a big white M on a red square. You can buy tickets at the chunky machines at the stations, and although they accept cards, they can be tricky, so I recommend cash (change works best). There will usually be a line of people buying tickets, so give yourself time. The ticket will be a piece of paper with a code, and it needs to be fed through a slot at the turnstiles. If you buy an all-day ticket, make sure to put it in a safe place for later. To be honest, unless you have mobility issues, you can walk just about everywhere. A one-way single line ticket will cost around €1.80.
As I’ve said before in previous posts, train travel is extremely affordable in Italy. You can download the train app on your phone and purchase tickets that way. You can use the Trenitalia app or Trent! app. Using an app will save you a lot of time compared to standing in line at the train station to buy a paper ticket. Also, paper tickets need to be validated prior to boarding your train. Mobile app tickets get validated automatically. The Naples Central Station is multileveled, sleek, and modern (well, the ground floor and up is anyway). On the ground level is the main station with intercity connections across the country—think big trains. Below it, on the lower level, are the smaller commuter trains and the Campania Express (options you can use to travel to Pompeii and Sorrento). There are several places to eat/buy snacks in the lower terminal and a food hall above the main station. Remember when you are looking at the board, Italian cities will be in Italian, duh. For example: Naples = Napoli, Venice = Venezia, Milan = Milano, and Rome = Roma.
Train travel is my preferred mode of transportation in Europe. When available, I purchase first class carriage tickets. Why? Bigger seats, more leg room, the carriages are cleaner, usually quieter and are definitely less crowded. A first class ticket is usually $10-$20 more than a 2nd class ticket and are well worth it especially if you are on a longer train ride. You can reserve the seat you want (facing forward or back and/or with a table between you and your companion). There is also usually a bigger storage area for large luggage too. Trust me, get the first class ticket.
There is a huge cruise ship terminal at the port. Cruise ships and ferries dock next to each other. If you are arriving this way, there is a Metro station right across the road from the terminal. On foot, it’s less than a ten-minute walk to the city center.
Where to sleep.
I booked all my hotels/B&Bs on Booking.com or Expedia.com. I’ve never had any problems with any of my reservations. That being said, I always try to book a reservation that has a free cancellation option. Also, I always try to pick a location that is close to the central train station in whichever city we go to. Our goal is to be able to walk easily from the train station to our hotel, keeping in mind that we will be hauling luggage with us. For this visit, we stayed at Hotel H22 (booked on Expedia.com) right across the street from the central train station on the piazza. Below the hotel was a string of restaurants and cafes. Super convenient, and due to its close proximity to the train station, there was a notable police presence, so I felt safe.
