Capri, Italy

Capri is an island off the coast of Italy in the Bay of Naples. Maybe you’ve heard of it? I’m sure you’ve seen it; Dolce & Gabbana filmed their legendary Light Blue Perfume commercial here. You’ve probably seen that one; it’s the one filmed in front of the rocks to the left, and a drop-dead gorgeous male model, wearing a teeny tiny white speedo, pulls himself into a boat where an equally gorgeous female model waits for him. Capri, pronounced KAH-pree, not kah-PREE, is famous for its blue waters, rugged landscape, upscale shopping, and hotels. But perhaps its best-known site is the famous Blue Grotto and then possibly the symbol of the island, the Faraglione Rocks (without the white speedo). Capri is considered a first-rate tourist trap, packed with tacky souvenir shops and, in the high season, overrun with gawky tourist groups. Keeping that in mind, even with the crowds and commercialism, Capri is flat-out gorgeous! Chalky white cliffs shoot straight up out of the blue-green water and mesmerize you. The island not only offers stunning landscapes but unique unforgettable experiences. A trip to Italy really should include a visit to this island.

The island itself is pretty small; almost 2 miles wide and about 4 miles long. The island is almost completely bordered by high and steep coastal limestone cliffs. The main port of Capri is Marina Grande; this is where ferries from Sorrento, Naples, and other locations dock. The marina is its own small community with Capri Town on a ridge high above the harbor. There are three ways to get from the marina to Capri Town: by foot, there is a walking path; by Funicular (€2 per ride); and by bus (€7 for an all-day ticket). On the opposite side of the island is the smaller port: Marina Piccola. This is where smaller tour boats will drop off tourists. From this smaller marina, you can travel again to the towns by bus, or if you don’t have time to wait, you can hire a taxi. Taxis have fixed rates and come in several sizes, seating 4 or 6 people. We split the price with two other couples who wanted to go straight to the Town of Anacapri like we did. Make sure to bring cash for the taxi rides. The island has two towns: Capri Town and Anacapri. We were focused on getting to Anacapri to ride the chairlift all the way to the island’s highest point, Mount Solaro, which I highly recommend checking out (more on this later).

Getting to Capri

There are two ways to get to Capri, one of which is by scheduled ferry. Ferries from Naples, Sorrento, and Positano run to Capri multiple times a day. You can check FerryHopper online or DirectFerries.com for tickets and timetables. IMPORTANT: Last ferries back to the mainland leave around 6:00 PM – 8:00 PM. Return tickets sell out fast, so I highly recommend booking your return ticket early and online. The other option to get to the island is by tour boat. This is what I did. I booked the ‘Day Trip to Capri and Blue Grotto’ tour on GetYourGuide out of Sorrento. This tour cost about $150 each but offered an all-day, stress-free itinerary with pickup/drop-off at your hotel. Absolutely worth it. This way, you don’t have to possibly cut your trip short because you have to get off the island, stand in long lines at the marina, and stress about getting back.

Things to Do

The chief attractions here are the famous Blue Grotto and the chairlift ride from Anacapri to the top of Monte Solaro. The cost for the Blue Grotto tour is additional because you actually have to pay the guys at the floating ticket counter outside the grotto, which is €15 each (they will take cards). Do not skip out on the Blue Grotto. Getting into the grotto is half the fun! The actual experience doesn’t take long, but getting in and out is exciting. You have to squeeze into a tiny rowboat, laying as flat as possible on your back (or on top of the person behind you). These boats fit only 4 people and the boatman. Then your boatman will make his way to the tiny hole; this is where you question your life choices. It looks like it’s impossible to fit, but the boatman, in time with the swells of the ocean, will pull fast and hard on a chain at the low point of a swell, lay flat himself, and squeeze you in. Once inside, he will row you around, possibly sing you a few lines of a song. The blue light inside the grotto is luminous, and pictures don’t do it justice. You won’t stay inside for long, just enough for a few pictures and videos before squeezing back out. Once outside, the boatman will fish for a tip; a couple of euros is plenty, so be sure to bring cash with you. Please note: if the seas are too rough, trips in and out of the grotto will not be permitted so keep this in mind when booking the excursion.

Taking the chairlift up to Monte Solaro was really cool. The ride offers panoramic views of Capri and really isn’t that high off the ground, so if you are someone afraid of heights, I think it would be manageable. The ride is smooth and floats over a few orchards and residential backyards. The ride itself takes 12-13 minutes one way and is actually very relaxing. It costs €12 for a roundtrip ticket. Once you reach the top, you will be in awe of the best panoramic views possible. Even if the skies aren’t very clear, it’s still spectacular. You’ll find the Faraglioni Rocks, so iconic; make sure to take a selfie or two here. Both Anacapri and Capri Town were clogged with tourists when we were there. Both are cute, but we made our way back to Capri Town for drinks and a light lunch at one of the restaurants that offer stunning views of Marina Grande from their terrace. We opted to walk all the way back down to Marina Piccola from Capri Town; there is a paved path with stairs that spits you out near the two tiny ‘free’ beaches on either side of the Siren’s Rock. They will be packed with people and the beaches are pebbled. Aqua socks would make life easier getting into and out of the water here. There are several options for drinks and treats here as well. It was a very pleasant place to sit and wait for our tour boat to pick us up.

If you are in the area, don’t pass up the opportunity to go to Capri. Expensive and crowded, yes, but with a little careful planning, you will maximize your experience and enjoyment. The beauty of the island is incomparable; you will be happy you made the effort.