Vienna, (Wein) Austria

Ahh, vivacious Vienna, I absolutely adore this city! Can you hear the smile on my face? Just writing this post makes me happy. Located on the eastern side of the country on the Danube River, Vienna is the beating heart of Austria and has been for centuries. If you love history, fine art, and coffee culture (and my husband will argue beer), then Vienna will be a special treat for you. Vienna was the capital of the powerful Austro-Hungarian Empire, which at one time was geographically the second largest country in Europe. Remnants of its vast wealth and power can be seen everywhere. Vienna is fairly compact and easy to navigate. Famous sights are clustered around the center but there are fascinating places to visit all over the city. For this post, I will mostly be touching on ‘must see’ highlights however, there is so much more to this city, it would take a book to cover it all.

As usual, I took the train to Vienna, more specifically the Vienna Central train station (Wien Hauptbahnhof), which is just outside the ‘Inner City’, about 1.75 miles away from the Stephansdom. I will admit this was a bit further from the old town than most, but I did book a hotel only a few blocks away from the train station and opted to walk to the city center. Vienna does have metro stations called U-Bahn (look for the big white U on a blue sign); there are no turnstiles or scanners there. You simply hop on and off on the honor system. Tickets can be bought at machines near the station entrance, ticket offices, online, and in the WienMobil app. Tickets need to be validated at barriers on the first use, which time and date stamp your ticket. You can also buy day passes that allow unlimited travel within a certain amount of time. If you get caught without a validated ticket, you will be fined on the spot about €60 ($65 USD). I’ve seen plenty of people get caught; it’s not worth it, buy a ticket.

First thing I do after either checking into my hotel or store my luggage is to make my way to the city center or square. On the way there, I take note of any restaurants, shops, or sights I may want to come back and check out later. I just like to get the lay of the land so I can travel as efficiently as possible. I also prefer to walk as much as possible because that is when you stumble upon some of the greatest, most unique shops, restaurants, cafés and bars. You’d miss a lot of that if you take the Metro from place to place. So, if you have the time and the stamina, walk. The main pedestrian street in Vienna’s historic city center is Karntner Strasse, which connects St. Stephen’s Square (Stephensplatz) with the Vienna State Opera (Wiener Staatsoper). This street is a lively and a natural gathering place. The urge to linger, stroll, shop and enjoy the views at a street-side café is irresistible. This is the sort of atmosphere you’d miss if you took the metro.

At the north end of Kärntner Strasse, is what is considered the center of Vienna; St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Also known as Stephansdom, it features a soaring spire and towers with a unique colorfully tiled roof, making it the city’s most iconic sight. A church has stood at this site for over 800 years and is a ‘must-see’ in Vienna. You can get a ticket to go to the top of the North Tower for views of portions of the city. This seems to be a common theme for me: going to the highest point of each city for the views. This, however, is probably a skippable excursion. Prior to going, I did not know the cathedral rooftop blocks half of the city from view, and there is an ugly chain-link fence surrounding the rest of the area. Space is at a premium up there and most folks have zero self awareness. Many will not hesitate to budge and jockey into prime spots along the edge irregardless of how long you’ve patiently waited. I guess if you are a fan of glazed tiles and want to get a good look at the roof, go for it; otherwise, this is not worth the time. There is an elevator that will take you to the top, but the time spent in that line can get long. Do, however, go inside the main part of the cathedral; it is free to enter, and check out the grand nave and high altar. You can also buy tickets ($4.90 USD each) for a guided tour of the catacombs under the cathedral. The catacombs are well lit, not too claustrophobic, and a great option for keeping cool in the summer.

A short and easy walking distance from the Cathedral is another ‘must-see’ sight of Vienna: The Hofburg Complex. One of the biggest palace complexes in the world and a former imperial family residence, the Hofburg is not a single palace but a series of buildings, squares, courtyards, and gardens. Today, the complex houses the Federal President of Austria, government offices, ministries, and also features three museums, the Spanish Riding School with its famous Lipizzaner horses, and is the home of the Vienna Boys’ Choir. The Vienna Boys’ Choir performs regularly on Sundays as part of the Holy Mass in the Hofburgkapelle (Hofburg Palace Chapel); tickets are required. I was so looking forward to hearing the Boys’ Choir but discovered they take a summer break from the end of June to September. We missed them by one week; I was bummed, so be sure to check out their regular performance schedule. The museums include the Imperial Apartments with their original furnishings and decorations, the Sisi Museum showcasing the empress’s life, and the Imperial Silver Collection. Museum tickets are available online; it’s convenient and flexible and can be done days or weeks ahead of time. The Spanish Riding School is not only where the Lipizzaner horses are trained (held during the late morning; ticket prices depend on seat location and are available online; fair warning, seated tickets are expensive), but they also perform shows here. You can book training session tickets for standing room only for about $19 USD on GetYourGuide, this is a little easier on the budget and if you don’t mind standing, this is a great option. Again, check the schedule before going, they may be away on tour. The complex itself is huge, lavish, and well worth a visit.

Another ‘must see’ in Vienna is the Schönbrunn Palace. This was the main summer residence for the Habsburg rulers and is about 2.5 miles from the city center. You can take the U4 subway (which takes about 15 minutes) or you can take private transportation; I used an Uber. Is this palace worth going inside? Yes! Get a ticket; this place is opulent, extravagant, over the top, and huge! Not only can you take a palace tour, but you can explore the gardens, maze, zoo, and the Gloriette. Give yourself at least 2-3 hours if you can go at a brisk pace; otherwise, factor in more time. The Gloriette stands on higher ground than the palace and offers commanding views of the palace property and a great selfie with palace location. As a reward for walking all the way up there, the Gloriette has a café. This was the perfect spot to relax and recharge (with a cold beer for us) and plan the rest of our day. I highly recommend making a reservation for the Schönbrunn palace online; it gets very busy, especially in the summer months, and obviously, go in the morning before the heat and crowds move in.

There is nothing like sipping a creamy coffee and enjoying the comfortable hum of a Viennese coffee house. Vienna’s coffee house culture is a deep and intangible part of Viennese life and heritage; the tradition of coffee houses dates back to the late 1600s. Viennese coffee houses are more than just a place to get coffee; they are social spaces where people go to relax, read the paper (yes, they still have physical newspapers hanging on sticks) have conversations, see and be seen, and enjoy the company of others. When in Vienna, you must visit a Kaffeehaus; they are an institution here! Traditional coffee houses serve a wide variety of coffee, pastries, and treats. Some of the more famous coffee houses in Vienna include Café Central and Café Schwarzenberg, among others. These two happened to be the two we specifically sought out to experience. Café Central is arguably the most famous and was my favorite; in fact, I have a picture of it hanging on a wall in my house. Café Central lives up to it’s hype and is not a tourist trap. The interior is opulent and beautiful with marble table tops, Thonet chairs and high vaulted ceilings. Located in the city center, it was established 1876. They have a full menu offering traditional Viennese dishes as well as desserts and a full drink menu including beer, wine and spirits. I recommend getting a reservation but we were able to get a table for two right away because we went at an off-peak time. A long standing tradition here, waiters bring a glass of tap water to accompany every coffee; meant to cleanse the palate and enhance your coffee-drinking experience, it is also a way for coffeehouse owners to show off the quality of the water used to make their coffee. Eating here won’t break the bank but just know a large coffee, cappuccino or latte for example, will cost about $6.76 USD but considering the ambience, it’s absolutely worth it.

Now for my husband’s favorite subject; beer. He was determined to experience Vienna’s most popular beer garden; Schweizerhaus. This truly authentic Viennese beer garden, open since 1868, is famous for its draft Budweiser beer, traditional Austrian food, and its unforgettable atmosphere. This place is huge, and getting a table shouldn’t be an issue; tables are set under the leafy shade of a chestnut grove. The buzz of conversation and laughter, along with the heavy clink of beer mugs, makes you feel like you are walking into a party; it’s a scene that, for me, will never lose its charm. Honestly, I’ve never seen so many guys wearing Lederhosen in one spot outside of Munich’s Theresienwiese, and this was on a random summer day, not a national holiday. It felt very traditional, and we loved every minute we spent there. This place is a beloved destination for locals and tourists alike and is surprisingly steps from an amusement park; the Wurstel Prater. The patrons and staff were friendly, the service was fast, and the beer was cold. The Schweizerhaus is open daily from 11 am to 11 pm, from March 15 to October 31, so if you are visiting while the garden is open, put it on your list; do not miss this place.

Ok, a few cultural topics. Austrians are not Germans; please don’t compare them to each other. That would be like saying Americans are the same as Canadians. Even though their official language is German, it is definitely a different dialect. Austrians are friendly, but they can be a bit reserved, and unless they know you, they don’t engage in small talk. So don’t take it personally if you find yourself in a situation where you are sharing a table and they don’t strike up a conversation with you. Strangers are strangers here, and social etiquette calls for more reserved exchanges in public if they don’t know you. Maintain eye contact during greetings; Austrians do enjoy social interactions, but you will have to make the first move. Another cultural topic: Austrians are sticklers for punctuality, so please be on time for any reservations or tours. Also, Austrians take road rules seriously: wait for the light before crossing streets and cross at designated crosswalks; otherwise, you will get dirty looks.

I haven’t even scratched the surface on the subject of Vienna, but let me assure you, spend any amount of time there and you will not be disappointed. Vienna is all elegance and charm, with safe and clean public spaces. It offers rich history, music, arts, and a variety of attractions. The food, both savory dishes and desserts, is impressive and the café culture is something everyone should experience. I can’t say enough good things about Vienna, and I can’t wait to visit again.

Prior to going on this trip, I purchased the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Austria. This was a very helpful book with great maps, insights, recommendations, and practical information. It covers the entire country of Austria, so if you are visiting multiple cities, this is a great option for you. I am an Amazon Affiliate now but purchased and used this book prior to becoming one. I recommend it.

Traveling through Europe, I try to blend in and not stick out so obviously as an American tourist. The reason is that I’m trying not to be a target for pickpockets and such. What makes you look like an American? Stay away from wearing shirts with any words, team logos, or brand logos. This is a big tip-off that you are a tourist. Also, try not to wear baseball hats and visors; these are typically seen as an American fashion choice. Stick to wide-brim straw sun hats or a fedora. Additionally, athletic wear, i.e., yoga pants or leggings, is just not something Europeans wear outside the gym. I have found it smart to stick with ‘golf course’ attire. The reason is that it’s generally breathable, comfortable, doesn’t wrinkle, and looks dressier than a tank top or cotton t-shirt. It’s also important to remember that some places, especially churches, require you to have covered shoulders. Below are photos of examples that I always wear in Europe in the spring/summer. I have multiple colors and patterns in the shorts and tops. I try to stick to neutral bottoms and a printed shirt which will hide a multitude of lumps and bumps. I also like shorts with a few zipper pockets to deter pickpocketing. Layers are a good option as well; it can get cooler in the evenings, and a light jacket that doesn’t wrinkle is always handy to have along in your backpack. You can click here for the link to the shirt. Click here for the link to the shorts. Click here for the link to the jacket. All links will take you to Amazon, in which I am an Affiliate. I hope these examples help you when packing; I’ve gotten summer European travel down to a science. These are great daytime options and can also be worn in casual restaurants. Throw in a maxi dress or two for a little dressier night out.