Lucerne (Luzern), Switzerland

In the heart of Switzerland, surrounded by snowcapped mountains on Lake Lucerne, is the compact city of the same name. Lucerne has a very colorful Altstadt (Old Town), which is bordered on the north by a medieval wall (Musegg Wall) and split by the flowing waters of the Reuss River. The symbol of the city is the famous covered Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge), which gracefully spans the river and serves as a picturesque reminder of the city’s rich history. The landscapes and views from town are honestly stunning and although prices here can be a little high and it can get a bit busy, it is far from being a tourist trap. Thanks to its enchanting location, Lucerne is considered one of the prettiest cities in the world. It is an excellent base for exploring the surrounding mountains, where outdoor adventures are plentiful. Everything from swimming and hiking in the summer months to skiing in the winter months. The city is very walkable and safe. The old town was well maintained and clean, with cobblestone streets lined with shops, delightful cafés, and inviting restaurants. I visited Lucerne in the winter right after a fresh snowfall, making the town all the more magical.

The closest airport to Lucerne is in Zurich, Switzerland (ZRH). I did fly into this airport, then I took a train into Lucerne, only 25 miles; the ride typically takes 42-52 minutes depending on the line. Let me tell you, the views from the train are what really wow you. For that alone, I recommend taking the train into Lucerne; plus, with the bar car, you can sip on a glass of wine or a beer and really enjoy the show. The Lucerne train station is clean and efficient. It’s located right off the lake and blocks from the famous Chapel Bridge. Its fantastic location makes walking around Lucerne a breeze.

The Kapellbrücke (literally, Chapel Bridge) is a covered wooden footbridge spanning the river Reuss diagonally. Lucerne’s landmark is considered to be Europe’s oldest covered bridge. It was built in the 14th century and was originally a part of the city fortifications. The pictorial panels, which were incorporated in the 17th century, contain scenes of Swiss history as well as the Lucerne’s history. In warmer months the flower boxes hung along the entire span of the bridge are packed with flowers making it particularly beautiful. The Chapel Bridge is also famous for the interesting historic paintings that adorn the triangular roof trusses.  The triangular paintings illustrate the history of Lucerne and the legends of the city’s patron saints. Next to the Chapel Bridge is the Water Tower (public not allowed to go inside), an octagonal stone tower in the middle of the river that was originally part of Lucerne’s medieval fortifications.

A short distance down the river from the Chapel Bridge is Lucerne’s other historic wooden covered footbridge with paintings in its roof trusses—the Spreuer Bridge. Travelers interested in a deeper appreciation of Lucerne’s history and unique form of public artwork can walk across the Spreuer to see its 17th-century danse macabre (dance of death) paintings. There is also a small, red-colored chapel located in the middle of this bridge and features religious figures from the liturgical year.

From the Spreuer Bridge, there is a fascinating view upstream: the Needle Dam (also known as the Reuss Weir). Built between 1859 and 1861. It’s a weir, which maintains both the water level and the flow of the river through a series of thin pieces of wood, often called needles, which are not intended to be water-tight. Individual needled can be added or removed by hand to constrict the flow of the river, forming a sluice.

Once a symbol of power, the Musegg Wall and its nine towers are part of Lucerne’s historic fortifications; forming a striking crown around the Old Town. The 800-metre-long wall, erected around 1400, is considered one of the longest, best-preserved defensive walls in Switzerland. Nine stone towers, floodlit at night, remain standing on the Musegg. From April 1st to November 1st, the wall and the towers are open to the public every day from 8:00 am to 7:00 pm. From November 2 through March, the wall and towers are closed for winter – for safety reasons (snow, risk pf slipping). I did not know this and was dissipointed I couldn’t walk the walls but you can still walk the battle path around its base for some great views of Lucerne and the lake. There are steep wooden steps to get up to the base on the west side of the wall so if you have mobility issues keep this in mind. There is also a winding road that will take you to the base.

The Lion Monument (German: Löwendenkmal), or the Lion of Lucerne. This sculpture of a dying lion was sculpted from the rock of a cliff and commemorates the Swiss guardsmen who died in 1792 during the French Revolution. This mournful and touching piece is nestled in a rocky grotto set above a small lake in a charming park. You can’t go to Lucerne and not walk over to see this famous memorial. It’s a short, mostly flat ten-minute walk from the old town of Lucerne. The sculpture has an incredibly expressive expression of grief. It is one of the most moving sculptures I’ve ever seen.

Roughly six miles southwest of Lucerne is Mt. Pilatus. Many people take this opportunity to go to the summit. There is an easy way to get there from Luzern on a circuit called the Golden Route. It covers several modes of transportation; think of it as an all-inclusive ticket that covers four different modes of transport. You typically don’t need a ticket in advance; you can just show up. As of 2025, the ticket price per adult is CHF 115.80. Otherwise, you can book an excursion through TripAdvisor or a similar app. In case you didn’t know, CHF stands for Swiss Francs. They do not accept the Euro in Switzerland, so make sure you have the correct currency. The first leg from Lucerne is a 15-minute bus ride, then a cable car to Mt. Pilatus. For the return trip, you take a cogwheel train down the mountain (one of the steepest cogwheel trains in the country at nearly a 48% grade) and then ride a boat back to Lucerne on the lake. Tip: dress in layers; it will be chilly up there, and go early to avoid crowds. There are several places you can eat at the top, so maybe schedule time for lunch with a view. The views are spectacular and absolutely worth it.

A few other highlights for me were enjoying a nice lunch and adult beverages at the Rathaus Brauerei. This place is in Old Town and right off the river; it was a fun and lively place. The food was good, the service was fast, and the beer was refreshing. Next to enjoying the real thing in Naples, Italy, the second-best pizza I’ve ever had was at Ristorante La Cucina. A few blocks from the river, this very authentic Italian restaurant’s food warmed my soul on a crisp winter night; so good, I couldn’t stop thinking about it for days. I would also recommend stopping by Läderach Chocolate shop in Old Town. As Swiss chocolate goes, it’s pretty darn good. This store has an enormous selection; whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. I also stopped inside a few of the historic churches: Jesuitenkirche and the Church of St. Leodegar, both rather plain on the outside and beautiful on the inside. I booked a room at the Hotel Waldstätterhof. It is very conveniently located on a street adjacent to the train station, very clean, in a safe neighborhood, and my room had heated floors; a cozy bonus in the winter. I highly recommend staying here, close to the action but surprisingly quiet and easy on the budget.

I highly recommend visiting Lucerne; it is one of the few places I would actually make a return trip to. I have seen just about everything there is to see there, but the place is lovely and a convenient location for exploring further into the mountains. Stroll along the river or sit at one of the many inviting restaurants. Walking through the Old Town and its pedestrian-only streets is a treat; the painted buildings, half-timbered houses, and chocolate shops are just a few of its features. Walking along the Lake Promenade is particularly relaxing, and after sunset, it is magical with the lights bouncing off the water. Lucerne is a sampling of Switzerland at its best and deserves to be on your bucket-list of must see locations.

Prior to going on this trip, I purchased Fodor’s Travel Guide: Essential Switzerland. This is a pretty thorough guidebook packed with information and great pictures. The book covers the entire country of Switzerland, so if you are visiting multiple cities, this is a great book for you. I am an Amazon Affiliate but purchased and used this book prior to becoming one. It is a well-used and bookmarked tool for me, I recommend it.