Amalfi Coast, Italy

The Amalfi Coast is a stretch of coastline along Italy’s southwest coast. Imagine if Italy was a boot, it’d be at the front of the ankle. This area is famous for its dramatic scenery, quaint seaside villages and turquoise waters. My husband and I had seen a few Instagram posts and TV segments about the area, and we agreed it looked utterly enchanting. However, we were curious to discover if there was more to the area than, well, just looks. The Amalfi Coast consists of several towns, each offering its own unique charm and character. Positano, with its colorful buildings and narrow streets, invites exploration, while Maiori offers large lazy beaches that are perfect for a relaxing day in the sun. So, when planning a month-long trip to Italy last year, we include this destination on our list. We wanted to see if this stretch of coastline would truly live up to the hype. Spoiler alert… it does.

The Amalfi Coast basically starts at Positano and extends east all the way to Vietri sul Mare. According to locals, there are 13 towns and villages included in the Amalfi Coast. There are the hill towns like Ravello and Furore and coastal towns like Positano and Maiori. Amalfi Town is located about halfway down the coast. Almost all the towns are connected by the SS163 (Amalitana) highway, but only Positano, Amalfi, Minori and Maiori have ferry service/boat access.

Positano

Arguably the most famous and iconic village on the Amalfi Coast. The town is know for its colorful houses stacked on top of each other and the town’s beaches are packed full of colorful striped umbrellas. The town is built on cliffs overlooking clear, turquoise water so pretty it looks fake. Positano is a popular tourist destination and can get very crowded. Restaurants, hotels and beach clubs are overpriced here. Restaurants will usually have a long wait during peak hours. Beach clubs will book out well in advance so if you plan to go to the beach here, make reservations well ahead of time. The town is full of higher end boutique shops as well as touristy shops. The historic town center requires navigating a lot of stairs, so if you have mobility issues, this town can be difficult. Also, in the summer, Positano will be extremely crowded.

I booked an all day Boat Tour of the Amalfi Coast through the GetYourGuide App. The tour included a mid-day stop here. The sea slip is small and only smaller boats can unload and load passengers here. If the seas are rough, nothing will be allowed to dock so keep that in mind if you are planning to go by boat. I will admit, approaching Positano by sea was like entering a post card. It was absolutely stunning and when I say pictures don’t do it justice, I mean that.

We visited in August, exactly when all the guidebooks tell you not to visit. It was so crowded with tourists it was stupid. We managed to get a table for lunch at one of the beachfront restaurants. Turns out there were only tables available because it was one of the more expensive places to eat. But we were hungry, hot, and under time constraints. Two bottles of water and a cheese pizza cost us €42. We had a little time to squeeze through the town, but honestly, with the crush of people, we could not enjoy ourselves. Positano looks beautiful, romantic, and glamorous, but save your money; stay in the boat.

Amalfi Town & Atrani

My husband and I spent several nights at a B&B in Amalfi Town. The home we stayed in was historical, and walking through the warren of tunnels, winding streets, and narrow stairways made us feel like we were walking back in time. We were completely immersed with the locals of this town and enjoyed the quieter hours in the mornings before the tourists descended and wandered the maze of cobbled streets in the evenings after they all left. It was utterly romantic. The town may not be as breathtakingly beautiful as Positano, but it is filled with history and culture. The heart of the town is the square in front of the Amalfi Cathedral and its imposing staircase. The Cathedral of St. Andrew is worth the €3 admission fee and includes access to the Cloister of Paradise, the Crypt (where the remains of St. Andrew are buried), and the Diocesan Museum. The Piazza Duomo is a bustling square lined with restaurants, cafés, and Italian ice cream shops. The Cathedral is on the eastern edge of the medieval square, and a main street, Via Lorenzo, leads you off the square (past a fabulous bakery) and out to the main road that runs along the coast. Amalfi was a strategic stop for us, being right in the center of the coast and well-connected by transportation to other towns, but for three nights, it became our own little Italian paradise. The town has the same typical souvenir shops you’ll find all over the coast, so if you miss one town, don’t worry—they all sell the same stuff.

Amalfi is another town with slanting streets and lots of stairs. It has a small pebble beach and a lively waterfront. Interestingly, you can walk from Amalfi to the next town over, Atrani. The towns are so close together you might think it’s all the same town. Atrani is on the main road, but walking it can be a little dangerous. I recommend taking the pedestrian tunnel. Atrani is worth walking over to; it is charming, has picturesque streets, and of course, stunning coastal views. Plus, it’s often less touristy. We walked over along the road but took the tunnel back. I got some amazing photos of Amalfi town from the road.

Amalfi town is where we departed to enjoy our all-day Amalfi Coast boat tour (which, like I said, was booked on GetYourGuide, just look under Day Tours with Amalfi Coast as your destination). The Amalfi Coast is best viewed from the sea. This is the boat tour we took that dropped us off for a few hours in Positano. The tour was so much fun! Our captain and his crew of one were locals and embraced us as their own. It was a small, intimate tour with only 8 of us tourists. The tour included snacks and endless beer, water, juice, and mimosas. We literally cruised past every town from Positano to Maiori. We stopped periodically to jump into the turquoise waters for a refreshing swim. We snapped pictures in front of the famous bridge spanning two sheer rock faces at Fiordo di Furore. This narrow cove is pretty unique and hosts cliff diving (well, bridge diving) competitions every year. We watched some very brave teens jumping off mid-height rocks here and found ourselves thoroughly entertained. The crewman entertained us with folklore, insights, rumors, and jokes about each town we passed along the way. Of all the excursions I’ve taken in Europe, this one ranks in the top 5. We did not get seasick, if this is a concern, and we had the best time. I feel like I got a lot of bang for my buck with this tour and gained a good understanding of the area; highly recommend. We got back to Amalfi in time to get cleaned up for dinner, then enjoy a lazy after-dinner walk (la passeggiata). I always like to check out the towns we stay at night too. If it’s safe, you can get a whole other appreciation of a place in the evening. A perfect day if there ever was one.

Maiori and Minori

Maiori is the farthest town east along the coast that we made it to. It has the longest unbroken stretch of beach on the entire coastline, and it’s also relatively flat. Maiori is also known for a panoramic hiking trail called ‘The Path of the Lemons.’ This trail starts in Maiori and winds through lemon groves and vineyards all the way to Minori. The journey can take a leisurely hour and a half, but fair warning, it starts with about 200 steps up. You will be rewarded with panoramic views of the bay and up-close looks at centuries-old lemon groves along the terraced hills. The trail is 2.2 miles long, but about halfway through, you can reward yourself with the most delicious and refreshing lemon slushes at Agricola Ruocco; not really a restaurant, just a lovely little place for drinks and treats. The owner said to ‘slow down and enjoy,’ and as we sat sipping our lemon slushes under the shade of the lemon trees, I had to pinch myself.

Refreshed, we completed the Path of the Lemons, which pops you out in the town of Minori. Minori does have a small beach if you want to cool off right next to the pier where their ferry docks. We, however, walked back to Maiori along the main road and rented chairs at a beach club there. Both towns felt less touristy and quieter than the others. They both are very family-friendly and appear to be where local Italians prefer to spend their days at the beach. An extra bonus: restaurant prices are much more affordable here. If you want a relaxing day at the beach, go to Maiori; there are more beach clubs, restaurant options, and ferries stop here. The ferry from Amalfi town to Maiori takes about 20-22 minutes and cost us €8.20 each. If you take only one tip from this post, let it be this: YOU NEED AQUA SOCKS ON THESE BEACHES. Don’t think you can tough it out barefoot; you will be miserable. It’s difficult to relax on the beach when your feet hurt.

How to get there

The closest international airport to the Amalfi Coast is Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP). From there, I recommend taking the train to Sorrento. Once in Sorrento, I recommend taking a ferry to the port towns along the Amalfi Coast: Positano, Amalfi Town, Maiori, and Minori. Traveling by ferry is a great alternative to congested roads. It is definitely the best way to enjoy the Amalfi Coast, and you get the best view of the towns from the sea. You can travel by road, but the very narrow road winds along cliffs with hairpin turns, and traffic can be very heavy, especially in the summer. The drive can be very slow and stressful, especially when tour buses pass by. Unless you are a local, it is not recommended that you drive. If you must travel by road, hire a private driver, and if you get motion sickness, be prepared for a challenging ride.

Ferry Info

Multiple ferry lines run from Sorrento to the Island of Capri and the Amalfi Coast all day. You can look online at Directferries.com for Italian ferry routes, ticket prices, and timetables. You can book a ticket online, but then you either have to print out your voucher or show your digital receipt at the ferry ticket kiosk to get an actual paper ticket. Save your time and just walk up and buy your ticket at the kiosks. Also, be aware that only a limited number of tickets are available to purchase online. For example, it may say online that a route is ‘sold out’, but it’s very likely you can still buy a paper ticket at the port. Ticket prices vary, but in my experience, tickets typically cost between €8-€11 per ticket, one way. Seats are first come, first served. Most ferries will also have drinks and light snacks available on board for purchase.

Wherever you decide to stay and visit, you won’t be disappointed. The Amalfi Coast is beautiful and an utterly unique experience.